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In a small, converted 1930s house on Main Street in Morgan Hill, with just enough room for a few tables inside and an outdoor patio for al fresco dining, locals wait to be seated at Sicilia in Bocca. Once seated, I am greeted with a basket of sliced, crusty bread and complimentary bruschetta—fresh tomato, basil and garlic, gently tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper on a crisp ciabatta—a perfect start to a real Italian dinner.
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Overhearing the staff speaking Italian really puts me in the mood. I begin my gastronomic journey with the combinazione lupara ($10.75), which loosely translates to “sawed-off shotgun.” The dish, made of roasted bell peppers, fresh garlic and slices of grilled eggplant, is a vibrant feast for the eyes. Finished with olive oil, aged balsamic, and a sprig of mint, it is bursting with richness and flavor.
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I go right to the peasant Italian classic, linguine carrettiera ($13). Perfectly al dente, the pasta is tossed in extra virgin olive oil with a hint of crushed red pepper. Chef Salvatore makes his with a heavy dose of garlic, which he defuses by lightly roasting it first—it’s fragrant and pungent at the same time. Words cannot describe how satisfying this is to an Italian-American who grew up on this stuff. I have to go all the way, in true Italian fashion, so I order the veal rollatini ($22.75). It’s a tender veal cutlet filled with salami, ham, and a good helping of Pecorino Romano, rolled and lightly breaded. Finally, it’s topped with sauteed mushrooms and the Sicilian veal cordon bleu.
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The milky flavor of the veal is a canvas for the saltiness of the filling, and the earthiness of the mushrooms round out the entree. As we say in Italian, molto saporito—“lots of flavor.”
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I pair this with a Sangiovese/Merlot blend by Badiola, ($9.50/glass). This 2013 vintage is young, but has great balance and big notes, a terrific choice to complement the intensity of the dish.
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If you are looking for homestyle Italian fare, I wholeheartedly declare you have come to the right place. Sicilia in Bocca brings the food, the atmosphere and the Italian experience.
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Chef Steve Caposio, aka Chef Capo, is a South Valley chef passionate about good food. Visit him online at chefcapo.com.
